[photo-3d] self running ektagraphics

["Joseph Valvo" <jvalvo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

First of all your connection was a victim of time delays and crosstalk. 

One possibility is to use first party isolation and control components, possibly obtainable from Kodak. The second possibility is to make your own rig. If not that then--------

The first requirement is to discard the the remote controllers. Do not parallel these as the projector internals are not dry, but are 6o cycle powered. Remote circuits should be electrically isolated. To do this purchase a couple interposing relays from Radio Shack or elsewhere. I suggest that these have 12 or 25 volt coils and that you also purchase a 110v to 12V or 25V isolation transformer.Wire the (dry) output contacts of each relay separately to each of the two projector pin jacks where the remote pushbuttons previously inserted ( you will have to trace the multi-pronged projector plug to find out which pins are for the projector advance circuit. Do not put separate power to this portion of the circuit). Parallel wire the isolating relay coils to the "secondary" of the 110v transformer. Next find a recycling timing relay having a variable set timing pot on it. The timer coil should have it's own "sealing" contacts. Wire the output contacts of the timer in series with the !
transformer promary.and a 110 vo
lt supply . Wire the coil "input" terminals of the timer  to a non-maintained contact normally open start pushbutton and then series this to the 110 volt supply. Wire a normally closed contact stop pushbuttion to the relay coil sealing contacts so that the cycling may be interrupted.. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT "ALL" TIMING COIL OUTPUT CONTACTS ARE ISOLATED FROM THE TIMING COIL INPUT TERMINALS. Insert  5 or less amp fuses in all supply lines. Check the circuit with a qualified electrical person before energizing. If the timing relay as two sets of isolated contacts you can eliminate the interposing relays and just use these as the dry contacts for the projector jack ( such would be best). Sounds involved but is economical.

This writer hereby issues this disclaimer from any responsibility for the functionality of the afore mentioned scheme and absolutely disclaims any responsibility for equipment damage or personal injury arising from assembly or use of the scheme. In other words if you don't know what you are doing don't do it, or have a qualified person make a safe assembly. You know, kind of like if you don't know enough to keep the lever depressed after pulling the grenade pin then don't pull the pin!!!! Always be careful of cross talk and sneak feedbacks when messing with electrical circuits as electricity can have as much, or more, punch than the grenade. Barbecued hands are not very functional. Likewise do not mess with the circuits of flash units as the capacitor charge may be a couple thousand volts.

Be aware that this scheme will disable remote focusing previously available in the remote controller PB.

For the watchdogs I can only say that I did not put this on Tech-3D since ther is no rocket since here. Further Boris may not look ther for it.

JFV

Left
projector        Low voltage circuit           High voltage circuit
pins.   IRDC  IsRC   TS 12v~   TROC        TP      TRC   NCPB    NOPB
*--------ll        ()-------ww---------ll--------     WW----()-----o /L/ o----o ll o-----o110v ac~o
*--------ll        ()                                           ______                       ll
                                                                 l______l                   TRSC
                                                                                                 ll
                                                                  Pot &                       TRRC                                 
                                                                  recycle circuit                                        
                                                               

Nomenclature
IRDC= Isolatimg relay dry contacts
IsRC= Isolating relay coil, 12 or 25 volts.
TS   = Transformer secondary, 12 or 25 volts.
TROC= Timing relay output contacts
TP    = Transformer primary
TRC =  Timing relay output contacts
NCPB = Normally closed pushbutton
NOPB = Normally open pushbuttom
TRSC = Timing relay sealing contacts
TRRC = Timing relay recycle contacts
Pot  = Timing relay time set potentiometer
Dry contact means just that! No voltage on it and no sneak stuff from anyn hidden source.

Repeat low voltage portion of the circuit for right projector.

Set the Pot for enough time delay so that you do not start a race between the projector innards and the new circuit. In fact best to tape a min time block on the pot. Trying to be cute will only damage something.

Having said all the above, it might be easier for you to just whittle out a sockets in soft wood block, tape the the existing projector remote buttons together and insert in the block with pbs exposed. Then hinge an actuating board to the wood block and press it based on you own built in timer. If you do not like that then just simultaneously press the buttons with seperate hands. After all you are not doing fades and stuff here!


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