RE: Noblex Repair & other tidbits

[Willem-Jan Markerink <w.j.markerink@xxxxx>]

On 28 Dec 98 at 20:46, Cedar Springs B&B Lodge wrote:

> We do get inquiries about problems with Noblex cameras.  We are interested
> in your comments and suggestions to improving the cameras.  Please let us
> know of your concerns, problems and ideas and we will pass them on to the
> factory!  The most common problems relate to operator error...improper
> loading, not taking up the slack while loading, not centring the film spools
> properly, not lining up the film arrows (120) to the red dot.  We find
> usually 10 films as a learning curve are not unusual to start getting the
> top results for your camera...if you have never used this type of camera
> before.  I have used all models of the camera and the only problems I have
> had come when I haven't used the camera for a few weeks and forget
> something!  Again, please contact me  if you have any comments regarding
> these cameras!
> 
> Joern Rohde, Noblex Internet, Canada
> http://www.whistlerinns.com/noblex

Hi Joern (and other 150 users/experts),

I bought a used 150 Pro some time ago, and have tackled most of the 
user errors[1], but I keep experiencing an odd intermittent problem, 
one that I can't put my finger on in terms of cause and remedy, 
although I found a trick so that it doesn't spoil images any more. 

My problem is that when pressing the release button, the drum 
*sometimes* only rotates partly, and stops, mostly at 90 degrees 
(where the (then) closed slit appears).
- sometimes the drum moves on while I stare at it in disgust
- sometimes the drum moves on while I lift my finger off the release 
button
- sometimes the drum moves on while I press the button another time
- the drum *always* starts moving when I try to rotate it back, to
give it another try....I soon found out that this only works
decently when I the drum locks audibly....this requires switching
the camera off, and to avoid a wasted frame, I must use
multi-exposure mode before locking, and switch back to normal
transport before the next attempt.
- it is *not* battery related....I was actually pleased with the 
results at -10C, although it requires more attention than my EOS-gear 
in the battery department (do later models still have the separate 
battery-compartment-lids btw?....scary stuff when standing on a steep 
ski slope, at -10C, with a murder wind....and the batteries don't 
come out that easy either....room for improvement IMNSHO!
- frequency is about once every film (120 only)
- sometimes it requires only one retry, sometimes more
- it *seems* as if the slow times have a higher tendency to jam than 
the faster ones

Any similar experiences in the past, and solutions? 
I already have done surgery on this camera before, seems the previous 
owner (in the USA) send it in for repair (scratching, seems they 
changed/polished the inside a bit), but they(?) left out one screw 
that attaches to the top cover from the inside....this caused the 
release button mechanism not to align properly, and one had to pull 
the button back up because it sometimes jammed....after using a 
hydraulic self-timer, and locking the button completely, I decided to 
perform surgery....this problem was too mechanical of nature to be 
beyond my competence....:-))

PS: what on earth does the battery-control light indicate? Even with 
flat NiCd's that can't move the drum anymore, it still lights green.
Is it a battery-presence light?....:-))
I am thinking of adding a tiny LCD volt meter somewhere....:-))

[1] apart from film jamming on the end of the roll....after
switching frequently between Velvia and NPS I can only conclude that
this phenomena (discussed many moons ago on this list, so I was
prepared, and even used a recently mentioned trick to spool back
vertically) is more film-related than user-error [*].

[*] the same applies to 35mm film in the 202 (and other pan cam's I
guess)....Scotch/3M negative is very stiff and prone to ripping,
while both Kodak EIR and HIE run smooth as baby bottoms, nearly
impossible to rip (both are thin aerial films btw, but the felt-trap
tightness is probably important too). In this area, I must also
stress Bob Ericksons warnings, especially the one about taking up
slack on the take-up reel....press the rewind-button on the bottom,
and reel the film tight....pulling by the sprockets only can be a
marginal adventure otherwise....this includes pulling by one side of
the sprockets only, something that can only be avoided with the film
leader by pulling out a decent amount of film out of the cartridge,
instead of pulling it out with the sprockets while loading....don't
put full force before both sides of the sprockets are engaged! (if
needed push/pull the film over the film rails with your fingers) In
the same department fall the tip to decrease overall film tension by
rotating the rewind-lever in the opposite direction, at any time
when film advance feels tight....this is also the *perfect* way to
check the end of the film....instead of ripping the last image
apart, and needing to find a darkroom/bag/cassette to remove the
entire film from the take up reel....8-))


--                 
Bye,

Willem-Jan Markerink


      The desire to understand 
is sometimes far less intelligent than
     the inability to understand


<w.j.markerink@xxxxx>
[note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!]