Re: 1/2 slide

[Ray Raffa <raffa@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Specialty dark slides are for multiple exposures for various uses. For example,
there is a set of two slides which produce 8 separate images on a 4X5 sheet of
film. Most commonly used to determine best film speed, or to determine
development times for Zone work. They are also used to test lens/shutter for
accuracy. A special target is used which produces an exposure grid for each
exposure. Since all exposures are developed the same, it eliminates all
variables except shutter speed and aperature. The negative can be printed and
compared to an included match card or the negative can be measured with a
densiometer.We are currently working on an adaptor to work with Polaroid films
and also a film holder which holds the film flat using vacuum.

Another slide produces 4 exposures approx. 2 1/2 x 2. These are commonly used
for portrait work. A few customers use them to produce 4 different 8 x 10
portraits by printing and processing 4 images together on 16 x 20, then cutting
up. These portraits are often toned, so it reduces processing work dramatically.

Regards,
Ray Raffa

Andrew Fildes wrote:

> >I manufacture specialty dark slides and have two a few comments from my
> >experience:
>
> Sounds unusual - what's a 'speciality dark slide'?
>
> >1.     Don't try to cut a rectangular frame in the dark slide. The thin
> >edge at
> >the end of the slide will catch on the light trap material and you will be
> >unable
> >to remove the slide.
>
> Excellent warning, thanks! I would think that the best way to aviod this
> problem would be to cut the ends of the cut-out at an angle or, even
> better, with rounded ends in the area outside the image. The Mamiya 6x9
> slides have a rounded and scalloped insertion end for just this reason
> >
> >2.     Original dark slide material is a bit shiny and can cause unwanted
> >reflections with strong lighting. You can paint the slide with a flat black
> >paint, but it must be a very thin coat or the addae thickness will make
> >insertion and removal difficult due to the added thickness of the paint.
>
> My new darkslides are unpainted stainless steel so this would be a problem.
> An old original one I own is black painted 'blued' steel - much better.
>
> >3.    Only cut enough material to expose the film. You want the full width
> >of the
> >dark slide fully engaged with the light trap to prevent light leaks.
> >
> >4.    On my product, the tab (insertion/removal handle) is on the opposite
> >side
> >of the cut out portion which applies a diagonal force which seats the slide
> >properly.
>
> Nice trick!
>
> >Hope this helps.
>
> Sure does
> Thanks and regards
> Andrew