Clayton's spring and banding problems

[Ron Klein <panorama@xxxxxxx>]

> I've found someone to make me a new spring.....is it worth "hot rodding" it to get more power out of it. What I'm talking about is longer, thicker material.

 

Resist the desire to "hot rod" your camera with a new spring.  If you are running a #8 camera and trying to make 360 degree pictures with a 20 inch lens, you could be at the physical limit of the motor output.  That is a very long photo.

 

 

 >With a 20 inch lens, my camera will only just do a 360, a bit more rotation would be good.

 

I would consider building a totally new mechanism like the type I am experimenting with on the #10.  This is an electric motor device, but absolutely no original parts in the camera are modified so that the camera can be returned to original condition easily.

 

>Also...how do I know if the spring I have, hasn't been shortened in the past? Do I add extra length just to be sure. When it runs down to a stop on the tripod, it takes about 22 half turns to fully wind up.

 

It seems short, but I'm not a big #8 user so perhaps another shooter can pipe in.  A #10 takes around 30 half turns to wind up the motor so you might be in the right ballpark since the #8 is a smaller spring.

 

 

Clayton:

 

Here are some hints to reduce your fine line banding problems that you are noticing in your mid tones. 

 

If the lines seem quite regular and are spaced close together (around 1/8 inch or so) then it is caused by not having the right mesh with the pinion gear to the ring gear.  Short of making a large drawing of what is happening when you mesh the gears, let me explain.  If you have set the gears too loose, when the camera is running there is a brief time when the single tooth on the pinion gear that is in contact with the ring gear slips off before the next tooth engages.  Although the camera is still moving from enertia, there is a distinct hessitation, at least enough to effect exposure.  If you check machinist type books as to correct gear mesh, they are much tighter that what the original cirkut instructions tell you to use.  As well however, too tight can cause the same effect due to binding or poorly made pinion gears.  All I can offer as to help is to tell you to try a different engagement on your next shot.  My guess is that you are too loose.  Do a practice run and after you start the camera look up at the mesh WHILE IT IS RUNNING.  You will probably notice that the mesh will appear looser that how you set it.

 

Here is another "problem" that cirkut shooters notice with their cameras.  The central pin that holds the top and bottom parts of the turntable is SUPPOSED to be loose.  A lot of peope have freted over this (including me) as being the "solution" to banding.  It isn't. In fact, I have a turntable that is absolutely new from the factory and it is very loose.  The six rollers on the upper half are what correctly track the turntable and allow for irregular meshing to not be as much of a problem.  If the pin was made tight and not centered perfectly you can see what I mean.  One side of the ring gear would be tight and the other side too loose.  As cameras age, they get tossed around and parts get a little bent out of shape.  Without a doubt the original designers allowed for some of this.  Remember the cirkut camera was designed by 19th century logic, not people trying to get to Mars or using G4 computers.  Perhaps the best advice to photographers is relax and have fun with the camera, leave the micrometer at home.

 

Now if the wind and rain would only let up a little, I can get out and lay in my supply of salmon for the winter.  We smoke and can them.  NEVER FREEZE FISH!! That's the best advice I can possibly give anyone in this group. The snow is creaping down the mountain tops and is going to be on my roof soon.

 

Ron in Alaska