P3D Re: Info on NIMSLO's made in UK & in Japan

[WDuggan3D@xxxxxxx]

Brenda Knowlan in a recent PHOTO-3D digest asked for 
information as to the difference between NIMSLO cameras 
made in  the UK and in  Japan.

Over 10 years ago David Burder, London, England, who converted 
4-lens NIMSLO cameras into 2-lens full frame BURDLO cameras, 
told me that those made in Scotland, UK, had a weakness which 
was corrected when the  internal electronics were changed and 
improved in those made in Japan.  Some connection inside those 
made in the UK could become disconnected if the camera received 
a sharp blow when dropped, or banged against something, or even 
set down too hard, causing the camera to cease to operate.  
However, it could be easily repaired, in 10 to 15 minutes, by 
someone with the tools and knowhow..  At one point David Burder 
was selling repair kits and also kits to convert NIMSLO's to BURDLO's. 
 I don't know if he is still selling them or if he is willing to repair them. 
Perhaps he could clarify by sending up-to-date information to 
PHOTO-3D Digest???

REEL 3-D has published a booklet on the NIMSLO cameras, 
which would apply also to the TECHO-NIMSLO and BURDLO 
Cameras.

For those who don't know, the NIMSLO camera is a 4-lens camera 
intended for 4 half-frame negatives to be used to make lenticular 
3-D prints, which the "3-D MAGIC LAB" of RITZ Camera will still do 
using 3 of the 4 negatives.  It uses three  watch batteries #386 
best purchased in a grocery store or discount store, not at camera 
stores, has an internal computer that sets the exposure from F5.6 to 
F22, from 1/30 to 1/500 sec, and is so accurate that you can use 
slide film  (either ASA 100 or ASA 400) to make positives for slides.

What the instruction manual does not tell you, and what I have 
learned from experience is:  1)  If you press the shutter release 
too fast, the internal computer does not have time to set the 
program, and you will hear a dull click, as the aperature does 
not open, and you get no exposure;  2)  You should press the 
shutter release half-way down and wait til you see a red or 
green ball or circle in the viewfinder (which indicates that the 
program has been set), and only then push the shutter all the 
way down, upon which you will hear a slightly musical ringing 
click, indicating that the exposure was made;  3)  When the 
red or green ball becomes very light or transparent, it is time 
to install new batteries, as weak batteries can cause it to fire
a blank;  4)  When the red ball is seen in the viewfinder, it has
set the exposure for F5.6 at 1/30th second and is telling you 
to use flash.  I have taken good sunset, sunrise, nightlight (at
Las Vegas, Times Square, LONDON,etc.) without flash when 
the red ball as in the viewfinder. 


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