P3D How I mount Realist slides

["Dana Nibby" <dnibby@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

First of all, I use heat seal mounts because they're cheap. Now that 
I'll be picking up a projector, maybe I'll want to use something else.

I think a film cutter (like the kind sold by Reel 3D, which is what I 
use) is essential. I won't risk losing one-of-a-kind shots with a pair 
of scissors. It's also just a hell of a lot quicker/less nerve-racking 
if you use a film cutter. 

No light box needed - I use a flashlight balanced on an empty paper 
towel roll and hold my film cutter in front of the light; the film 
cutter was made for use on a light box.

Before I begin mounting, I tear small strips of masking tape and fasten 
them to the table I'm working on.

I mount the left eye image first, without heat sealing it, and hold that 
in place with masking tape. Then I insert the right eye image, not 
sealing it in any way, hold it shut with my fingers, and insert the 
slide mount into my *upside-down* radex viewer (so I don't lose the 
positioning of the right eye film chip) in front of a strong light to 
see the results - actually, before I do that, I hold the mount up to the 
light to check the vertical and horizontal alignment. 

If I'm happy with the results, then I heat seal it. 

It's easy to keep track of the left/right eye images by remembering that 
the left eye image will always be a larger number (on the film chip) 
than the right eye image, and that, roughly, film chips are two numbers 
apart - i.e. 13a = left, 11a = right, or whatever.

I guess I will want a lightbox at some point, but it's not necessary. 
And you can begin cutting a test roll with a pair of scissors; but boy 
do I love my film cutter.

 - Dana



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