P3D Realist a P&S?

["Andrea Blair" <asblair@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

>>>>Bob Aldridge wrote: BUT in the Stereo arena - for normal "snapshot" 
situations, the stereo camera becomes more point-and-shoot than it's 
flat counterpart, and that is in the area of FOCUS. Set the hyperfocal 
distance AND LEAVE IT THERE. And even the light won't change 
significantly under most P&S situations. OK, so a cloud goes over the 
sun. Wait until it passes, and not only will you not have to change any 
camera settings but you'll also get a better picture<<<<
 
>>>>Andrea Blair wrote (in part): BTW, hyperfocal distance is commonly 
used in "flat" photography. This is where I learned of the term and put 
it into practice. I have never (until now) heard of a stereo 
photographer refer to it.<<<< 

>>>>George Gioumousis wrote (in part): I'm not implying that every 
photographer should calculate a depth of field table ab initio, but I 
think even Andrea would agree that every photograper should be able to 
use it, and understand what a hyperfocal distance is good for.<<<<

Yes, I do. Have I given the impression otherwise? I already said that I 
use it in 2-D photography. I probably use it in 3-D photography 
unconsciously. It's one of those things you learn and *forget*, but put 
into practice every now and again.

>>>>George Gioumousis wrote: I think Bob is correct, and focus is more 
important in stereo. Out of focus areas seem to bother me more in in 
stereo slides than in flat slides. I'll have to experiment a bit to see 
if this notion holds up.<<<<

Why is focus more important in stereo than 2-D? I think focus is 
important in all forms of photography. There is also *selective focus* 
in which only certain areas will be sharp. The results are subjective 
IMHO. For example, you may not have tolerance to *anything* being soft 
in a certain scene, while I may accept some areas being soft (except the 
subject). Let us know how your experiments go! Try scenics as well as 
close-ups.

Andrea Blair
asblair@xxxxxxxxxxx

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