Re: [photo-3d] Re: Flash Photography help?

[Bill.Costa@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]

From: Bill.Costa@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

    David Motz <david.motz@xxxxxxx> posted in part:

> >    I'm not familiar with the 2800 so I am going to assume that it 
> >    is an 'automatic' flash for this discussion.  
> 
> It is an automatic flash.  (They both are.)

    We *might* have a terminology problem here.

> shot that looked over exposed.)   I got it with my Realist and never had
> the instruction manual.

    First order of business really should be to get a manual for the
    flash, as DrT has already suggested.  Got to 

       http://www.craigcamera.com/ib_vw.htm

    and you will find an instruction book for 2800 *and* 2800-D
    Vivitar model flash units.  In doing an Internet search I found
    the 2800-D listed under NIKON Accessories so I am *guessing* that
    the 2800-D is a dedicated flash -- not an automatic flash.  There
    is a big difference.  (Most dedicated flash units can also be used
    as an automatic flash, but the dedication adds a whole new layer
    of variables, particularly when used with a camera it was not 
    designed for.)

> Part of what is confusing me is that I know there are two power settings
> but there is only one recommended f stop and no recommended shutter
> speeds.

    If this is a dedicated flash, then you're *really* going to need
    the manual to understand it.  For use with your Realist you'll 
    have to know how to make sure that the flash is not trying to be
    used in dedicated mode.  In contrast all automatic flashes are pretty
    much alike, if you get the basic idea the controls on any such flash
    can be figured out.  But dedicated flashes, by their nature
    are very specialized with lots of built-in assumptions on how they
    will work with the camera they are designed for.

    DrT has already discussed the shutter speed issue.  I'll just add
    that I recommended the fast shutter speed on your Realist so 
    that ambient light is unlikely to be a factor, that is the flash
    will overwhelm the ambient light making it irrelevant to the 
    picture's exposure.  This is *not* necessarily going to yield the
    most pleasing picture possible.  But if the automatic flash is
    working properly, you will get a correct exposure most of the
    time.  (Remember that the automatic flash is using a photo cell
    to determine exposure and as such can be fooled by various 
    circumstances, just like a camera's own metering system can.)

> can't apply to both power settings at the same time can it?  On the
> Cullmann it shows f4 and f2 which makes more sense to me.

    The Cullman sounds like a typical automatic flash.  The choices 
    it is giving you are:

     f2 - wider lens opening gives you less DOF but the flash doesn't
          have to work as hard, thus extending it's maximum distance
          range.

     f4 - more DOF but the flash has to work harder, i.e. pump out more
          light to make up for the smaller lens opening.  Result is a 
          reduction in the maximum reach of the flash.

     Many automatic flashes will also show you the max distance available
     at that power setting.

> I think I'll get a book.  I should add though that I've not been terribly
> disappointed with wild stabs in the dark.  I just think I should be able
> to do better.  

     You can't argue with luck.  ^_^  Be sure to look for a book that
     stresses the use of manual and automatic flash techniques, avoiding
     ones aimed at dedicated flash use.

                                                       Later....BC

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| Bill Costa                                          |
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