[photo-3d] Re: Ricoh XR10M synch

[King3ddd@xxxxxxx]

In a message dated 00-04-20 20:45:13 EDT, Peter Davis writes:

<< isn't this a manual focus camera?  I don't understand how you can shoot 
 fast moving subjects if you have to focus both cameras manually.  Am I 
 missing something?
 If this is NOT a problem, how easily and cheaply can these cameras be 
 had?  I've been using a twin Ricoh Shotmaster II rig which I really like, 
 but I'd like to upgrade to a more robust, flexible camera.
  >>
This is a manual focus camera.  I have 3 pairs of lenses - 28s, 50s, and 
135s.  With the 28s you can pre set focus from about 7 feet to infinity, 
depending on the F stop.  with the 50s you can set focus from about 10 or 12 
feet to infinity, again depending on F stop.  I just use the 135s for long 
hypers.  The Ricoh XR10M bodies are available for $169 per body. I am not 
told the exact number of bodies still left, but I am told there is still a 
"large Supply" - and this after the 12 or so people I have sent over have 
purchased a total of about 36 bodies. Lenses are Pentax K mount and are 
available at B & H for $59 for the 28mm and a little less for the 50s.  You 
can find these lenses used at camera shows for a little more than half of 
that.  These lenses are plentiful and are readily available.  I have never 
tried zooms, but with a little more care in focusing and zooming, this is 
quite possible.  Of course you can easily use either extreme, so a 28 - 80, 
for example, which could be had for about $60 used and about $100 new at B & 
H, would give you a 28 and 80 "combination" lens without any more focusing  
time than a lens of either mm. The cameras are auto exposure with manual 
overide, but I have never used the auto mode - as I fear that there are times 
when exposures may differ - not through any fault of the metering system - 
but due to the nature of auto exposure sensitivity and the slight difference 
in what each lens is seeing.  My friend Jim Harp, who is very pleased with 
this system I recommended to him, found that perfectly fine pairs can be 
taken with one camera an inch or so behind the other - so as to keep the 
distance between lenses similar to the realist spacing.  I prefer the slight 
hyper effect, so I have not tried this myself.  Of course you could also use 
the bottom to bottom Jasper bar for vertical pairs.

Sheldon Aronowitz

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