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Re: Camera winding: before shooting
- From: P3D Michael Kersenbrock <michaelk@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Subject: Re: Camera winding: before shooting
- Date: Fri, 30 May 97 11:22:35 PDT
> 2. The Realist should not have the shutter cocked after a shot, because the
> shutter setting should not be changed (for new shot) after cocking.
> And the Kodak? It should be treated with the respect it deserves.
Although not related to the comment above, it reminds me of something I've
wanted to know:
Has anyone actually seen a Kodak with broken plastic? Kodak seems to
always be lambasted for using plastic rather than cast-metal, but in
the many Kodak's that I've seen (including many broken ones at shows) I don't
recall seeing the plastic cracked. Mostly sticky shutters and/or broken
ratchets (whatever it's called) on the film take-up. Neither due to the
plastic construction, I believe. I've kind of always wondered about this.
They don't seem to get case-cracks like plastic viewers of the time seem
to get. What, practically, was wrong with Kodak's choice of plastic? Are there
subtle problems that I don't realize are due to the plastic? Or does it
just seem "out of place" for the general tank sort of construction used in
the 50's ? Or do sellers just not put out ones with cracked plastic (although
that's hard to believe with the filth of some Kodak's I've seen at "antique"
dealer displays)?
> 3. Pre-winding may not seriously damage it beyond use. Why take a chance,
> if in the long run it could lead to inaccurate shutter timing? Avoiding
> camera repairs and adjustments is a time-saving and money-saving
> consideration.
I understand how the David White Company recommends not to pre-cock the
shutter and how not to adjust the shutter setting while cocked. I understand
that leaving the shutter cocked puts constant stress on the springs and that
it's better not to do that in the long run.
A question I have is whether these recommendations are universal or
camera specific? Might other designs (particularly those with auto-cocking)
have taken these things into account with either suitable springs or perhaps
a design that uses less tension? In other words, are these
recommendations applicable to other cameras where the manufacturer may not
have made the same recommendations? I don't mean whether or not
it's prudent to follow those rules "anyway" (undoubtedly true), but I wonder
if one may be taking on a problem needlessly? An inquiring mind
wants to know!
Mike K.
P.S. - As might be inferred, if at all possible, I prefer to have my camera
ready to take advantage of "instananeous" shot opportunities.
Pre-advanced, pre-cocked, pre-focused, and exposure preset to the
prevailing light condition. On a Realist, I leave the cocking until
the end, but not on other cameras that come to mind (like the FED,
Kodak, and Realist 45 which all "auto-cock"). But I don't want to
damage the cameras either. I want to have my cake and eat it too!
Can I?
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